LA CAMELIA,

La Camelia is one of those small, unglamorous, out-of-the-way spots that nonetheless enjoys a loyal following -- professors and grad students were prevalent the evening we visited. The restaurant has survived 16 years on the strength of its reputation for carefully prepared dishes and the heartfelt hospitality of co-owners and chefs George and Guylaine Moukhtarian. Indeed, the Moukhtarians offer Middle Eastern meals far beyond the usual hummus (ground chickpea and tahini dip) and falafel (ground chickpeas shaped into balls or patties and deep-fried). From the 11 meat and seafood offerings, we tried the "Spring Lamb Shish Kabob" ($12.75). The two generous kabobs grilled to medium had been marinated a la Armenia -- with much garlic and a pinch of hot pepper. They were served on a bed of homemade rice pilaf. For our second entree, we tried the grilled quail ($12.75). These small birds had been split open and skewered, with many of the tiny bones removed, and then expertly grilled with a garlicky marinade. As for dessert, we started the meal with a basket of complimentary roasted pistachios and ended it with Guylaine's homemade baklava ($1.50), also filled with pistachios. The dessert was terrific. Overall, plan to linger here -- the pace is unhurried and genteel.

Full review.